Facciamo un giro di Napoli

Early yesterday morning, I was quietly awoken and told to get ready quickly so we could get to the market before the sun became too hot. By 8 am we were there wandering around all the stalls on the hunt for shoes and dresses for me for the beach. While we were there we bumped into the man who sang for us at the pizzeria, and several of Lina’s friends. And people are back to asking if I’m from Russia – it’s flattering, but really? Russia?

During our searching, I don’t know how many piles of clothes Lina and I trawled through, but it was almost impossible to find anything that I liked. Lina kept on leading me to new stalls where I was “sure” to find something, but it soon became clear that my taste is definitely not aligned with that of Casalnuovo. After quite some time, however, I did come across some cute white sandals for €5, a dress for €8, and some little gold jandals for €3. But by this stage the sun was out in full and the market packed with people, so we made our way back to the car as soon as possible, not realising that two hours had already passed.

Later in the afternoon I left to go into Naples to meet my friend Gennaro from school and fare un giro della città. To get to Napoli from Casalnuovo, you need to take the circumvesuviana, which takes about 15 minutes. Even though the graffiti had infinitely increased in Casalnuovo, I was glad to see the trains have been upgraded and are now very fancy. I was even happier to see that Piazza Garibaldi (basically the most dangerous train station you could ever be in – it’s the main station in Naples) had been completely revamped. It is now nice and safe and clean and filled with shops and bars.

I didn’t have to wait long before I spotted Gennaro coming towards me. Immediately I ran towards him and gave him a ginormous hug. It had been so long since we last saw each other; we had a lot to catch up on. We decided we would go by foot through the city towards il Duomo (an amazing church), pass by our school (Fonseca in Piazza del Gesù), walk around and down Via Roma and towards Maschio Angioino, back up past Teatro San Carlo, through Galleria Umberto, down to Pizza del Plebiscito to see Palazzo Reale and then continue around the lungomare towards Castel dell’Ovo. Unfortunately, because it is August and it was late in the afternoon, a lot of churches and things were closed. However, we had enough to do and see, so I wasn’t too upset.

Il Duomo

Piazza del Gesù

Maschio Angioino

One of four entrances to Galleria Umberto

Galleria Umberto

Castel dell'Ovo

We talked the whole way about what we’re both up to these days, and how things are going. Gennaro is now studying Japanese and English at university, works at an amazing Japanese restaurant in Mergellina (on the lungomare) and also works as an English-Italian translator for some Korean businessmen who speak English. It sounds like so much fun! They take him our for lots of fancy dinners! He also told me that when he finishes in March next year, he has a job in Osaka working in the most famous Italian restaurant in Osaka, Japan for three years, and said I was welcome to come and stay with him whenever I want. Gennaro, I will definitely take up your offer. Having my own tour guide in Japan, who could say no?

Luckily Gennaro was kind enough to let me struggle my way through maintaining our conversation in Italian, even if he is fluent in English. I don’t like it when people want to practice English on me because I really need to pick up my own language skills. Especially since my parents talk Napolitano!! It makes it that much harder because I barely understand anything!

On the way, we also bumped into a few of Gennaro’s friends along the way, one even asked him quietly what language we speak in New Zealand, thinking I wouldn’t understand. Gennaro patted him on the shoulder patronisingly and said “Inglese. Bravo.” Trust me, this is not the first time this has happened.

Anyway, our giro in Naples was so much fun. It’s such a crazy city with little streets everywhere, clothes hanging between the buildings from the apartments and motorini weaving in and out of the path of pedestrians.

Spaccanapol: our school is just to the right in the middle of the photo

I dolci napoletani: see the giant babà in the right hand corner

My favourite things to see again, however, would have to be Galleria Umberto and Castel dell’Ovo – a castle with undoubtedly some of the best views in the world.

The view from the first level of Castel dell'Ovo

The view of Mergellina entering the Castle

Of course, we had to stop in Piazza del Plebiscito for me to have a gelato (amarena and frutti di bosco), and for Gennaro to get a mint granita. The gelato here is absolutely delicious, I cannot over emphasise it enough. I can’t believe I never ate it last time I was here! I’m crazy!!

Piazza del Plebiscito (I saw the Pope here a few years ago)

Palazzo Reale: when Naples had a King, he lived here (it is opposite the building above)

Gelato: amarena and frutti di bosco

Along the way to Castel dell’Ovo, we were lucky enough to have the most perfect day. There were lots of people swimming in the sea, and I managed to get a great photo of Vesuvio. I could spend all day on the lungomare, and all night I might add. It is almost too beautiful to capture on camera, but I tried my best.

Vesuvio seen from the lungomare

People swimming in the sea on the lungomare

La granita, la frutta, il cocco

While we were walking, Gennaro explained to me how he signed up to a website and now takes Japanese tourists on free trips around Naples to see all the best views. He said it’s great because then he gets to the city in a way he wouldn’t see it if he just lived here everyday. Sometimes it’s easy to forget to appreciate where you live. That’s why I am so surprised when Lina tells me I know Naples ten times better than her. She hasn’t ever seen any of these places, not even Castel dell’Ovo. Speaking of which, we did eventually make it there and climbed up to the top to get the best of views. It was a nice respite from the deadly heat outside. Inside the castle it’s always fresh with a slight breeze that streams through the walkways, that is, until you reach the top. From the top you can see for miles, all along the lungomare and right out to across the city and to the horizon. The sun was glittering on the azzurro water and made me feel like I was in heaven.

The view from the top...Stupenda.

The view of Mergellina from the top of the Castle

Castel dell’Ovo was made for the war in order to see the situation on the ocean (sorry for the terrible language, it's hard to translate). Gino later explained to me that it’s name (ovo = egg) comes from a legend that a mermaid and a dragon had a fight, the dragon turned the mermaid into stone and put a dragon egg on her head and this is the base of the castle. Gennaro also told me that if this egg ever breaks, the whole of Napoli will sink into the sea. Legends aside, the castle is amazing. From the top you can see up to Castel Sant’Elmo on the hill, which was also built for the war, but to see further out to the sea, and has 360° panoramic views. In fact, seen from above, Castel Sant’Elmo is actually the shape of a five-pointed star. Obviously you can’t see this when you visit it, but on postcards it looks amazing.

Since it was only around 5 and the sun doesn’t set until around 9, we decided we would walk back up Via Roma (the most beautiful street in Naples with all the luxury brand stores) and take the funicolare (cable car) to Vomero, a very rich district up on the hill. If anyone has seen my favourite brown Italian boots, this is where I bought them. If you want to shop anywhere in Naples, in my opinion, it must be done here. Not only are the streets all cobbled, scattered with gelaterie and pasticcerie, lined with oak trees and surrounded by beautiful negozi, there are also stairs and escalators on the streets, because it’s sort of steep in some places (hence the need for a cable car).

A street in Vomero - then my camera ran out

From the funicolare in Vomero, we walked up and around to see if Castel Sant’Elmo was open, but unfortunately it had just closed. Instead we walked around further by the Certosa di San Martino to admire the view of Naples, Vesuvio and Spaccanapoli. I love this view. I’ve been up there a few times, by day and by night. Both are equally beautiful. You can see ancient buildings for miles, the direct line of Spaccanapoli which cuts the city basically in two (this is where my school was), Vesuvius is in the distance, and right in the middle is Centro Direzionale, the business district of Naples.

A zoomed in view of the city, the tall buildings are the Centro Direzionale,
and Spaccanapoli is the dark line leading towards them

The view from the certosa, Santa Chiara is the church with the green roof -
it is opposite my school - and Vesuvio is in the distance

We walked back down to Vomero to have a look around and soon came across a pasticceria which sold ginormous meringues! I’m so sad my camera ran out of battery so I couldn’t take a photo of them, but it was bigger than both of your fists put together and then dusted with cocoa. My attempts to explain to Gennaro how amazing my mum is at making these, and how delicious they are were not doing these meringues justice. So in the end Gennaro bought us one to share – he insisted on one each, but both of us are glad I convinced him it was too much. He would eat it for a bit and then give it to me, then I would do the same. We both had meringue powder all over our mouths, and by the time we had finally finished it, my fingers and mouth were all sticky from the sugar. But it was worth it, so so delicious. Mum, a hint – cocoa on meringue = BUONO!!

By this stage our feet were feeling quite achy, so we returned to the funicolare to go back down to Via Roma, and then walked to Monte Santo to get the metro. Monte Santo is such a crazy place! There are people all over the place and it’s kind of like a market on the street, but cars and scooters attempt to in the streets too, so it ends up pretty chaotic.

We took the metro to Piazza Garibaldi where I sadly had to leave Gennaro, but I had to get home because it was getting late and the trains don’t run here after 9. I made it home just in time for dinner at 9pm, and it was only when I arrived I realised I had about six missed calls from worried parents assuming something awful had happened. I guess they have every reason to worry after how many things happened last time I was here. Nevertheless, I got home safely, albeit with the sorest feet I have had in years.

We had a delicious salad with lettuce, baby potatoes, olives, grilled eggplants with chilli and garlic in oil, and tomato, and this strange meat in a can that Afrodite insisted was delicious. I wasn’t so sure when it came out of the can and managed to maintain its shape on top of my salad, covered in jelly, complete with ridges from the inside of the can. I managed to get most of it down, but I don’t know if I’m so keen for it next time. Probably one of the first times (since the fegato – liver – incident 4 years ago) that I haven’t liked something here. Oh, and the pig intestine incident. Both very dangerous and not to be repeated.

For now, however, I think I have written enough. I have lots more to write about today and my arrival in Fossacesia, Abruzzo. Pretty much the most amazing beach I’ve ever been to. So until next blog, ciao!!!