Facciamo un giro di Napoli

Early yesterday morning, I was quietly awoken and told to get ready quickly so we could get to the market before the sun became too hot. By 8 am we were there wandering around all the stalls on the hunt for shoes and dresses for me for the beach. While we were there we bumped into the man who sang for us at the pizzeria, and several of Lina’s friends. And people are back to asking if I’m from Russia – it’s flattering, but really? Russia?

During our searching, I don’t know how many piles of clothes Lina and I trawled through, but it was almost impossible to find anything that I liked. Lina kept on leading me to new stalls where I was “sure” to find something, but it soon became clear that my taste is definitely not aligned with that of Casalnuovo. After quite some time, however, I did come across some cute white sandals for €5, a dress for €8, and some little gold jandals for €3. But by this stage the sun was out in full and the market packed with people, so we made our way back to the car as soon as possible, not realising that two hours had already passed.

Later in the afternoon I left to go into Naples to meet my friend Gennaro from school and fare un giro della città. To get to Napoli from Casalnuovo, you need to take the circumvesuviana, which takes about 15 minutes. Even though the graffiti had infinitely increased in Casalnuovo, I was glad to see the trains have been upgraded and are now very fancy. I was even happier to see that Piazza Garibaldi (basically the most dangerous train station you could ever be in – it’s the main station in Naples) had been completely revamped. It is now nice and safe and clean and filled with shops and bars.

I didn’t have to wait long before I spotted Gennaro coming towards me. Immediately I ran towards him and gave him a ginormous hug. It had been so long since we last saw each other; we had a lot to catch up on. We decided we would go by foot through the city towards il Duomo (an amazing church), pass by our school (Fonseca in Piazza del Gesù), walk around and down Via Roma and towards Maschio Angioino, back up past Teatro San Carlo, through Galleria Umberto, down to Pizza del Plebiscito to see Palazzo Reale and then continue around the lungomare towards Castel dell’Ovo. Unfortunately, because it is August and it was late in the afternoon, a lot of churches and things were closed. However, we had enough to do and see, so I wasn’t too upset.

Il Duomo

Piazza del Gesù

Maschio Angioino

One of four entrances to Galleria Umberto

Galleria Umberto

Castel dell'Ovo

We talked the whole way about what we’re both up to these days, and how things are going. Gennaro is now studying Japanese and English at university, works at an amazing Japanese restaurant in Mergellina (on the lungomare) and also works as an English-Italian translator for some Korean businessmen who speak English. It sounds like so much fun! They take him our for lots of fancy dinners! He also told me that when he finishes in March next year, he has a job in Osaka working in the most famous Italian restaurant in Osaka, Japan for three years, and said I was welcome to come and stay with him whenever I want. Gennaro, I will definitely take up your offer. Having my own tour guide in Japan, who could say no?

Luckily Gennaro was kind enough to let me struggle my way through maintaining our conversation in Italian, even if he is fluent in English. I don’t like it when people want to practice English on me because I really need to pick up my own language skills. Especially since my parents talk Napolitano!! It makes it that much harder because I barely understand anything!

On the way, we also bumped into a few of Gennaro’s friends along the way, one even asked him quietly what language we speak in New Zealand, thinking I wouldn’t understand. Gennaro patted him on the shoulder patronisingly and said “Inglese. Bravo.” Trust me, this is not the first time this has happened.

Anyway, our giro in Naples was so much fun. It’s such a crazy city with little streets everywhere, clothes hanging between the buildings from the apartments and motorini weaving in and out of the path of pedestrians.

Spaccanapol: our school is just to the right in the middle of the photo

I dolci napoletani: see the giant babà in the right hand corner

My favourite things to see again, however, would have to be Galleria Umberto and Castel dell’Ovo – a castle with undoubtedly some of the best views in the world.

The view from the first level of Castel dell'Ovo

The view of Mergellina entering the Castle

Of course, we had to stop in Piazza del Plebiscito for me to have a gelato (amarena and frutti di bosco), and for Gennaro to get a mint granita. The gelato here is absolutely delicious, I cannot over emphasise it enough. I can’t believe I never ate it last time I was here! I’m crazy!!

Piazza del Plebiscito (I saw the Pope here a few years ago)

Palazzo Reale: when Naples had a King, he lived here (it is opposite the building above)

Gelato: amarena and frutti di bosco

Along the way to Castel dell’Ovo, we were lucky enough to have the most perfect day. There were lots of people swimming in the sea, and I managed to get a great photo of Vesuvio. I could spend all day on the lungomare, and all night I might add. It is almost too beautiful to capture on camera, but I tried my best.

Vesuvio seen from the lungomare

People swimming in the sea on the lungomare

La granita, la frutta, il cocco

While we were walking, Gennaro explained to me how he signed up to a website and now takes Japanese tourists on free trips around Naples to see all the best views. He said it’s great because then he gets to the city in a way he wouldn’t see it if he just lived here everyday. Sometimes it’s easy to forget to appreciate where you live. That’s why I am so surprised when Lina tells me I know Naples ten times better than her. She hasn’t ever seen any of these places, not even Castel dell’Ovo. Speaking of which, we did eventually make it there and climbed up to the top to get the best of views. It was a nice respite from the deadly heat outside. Inside the castle it’s always fresh with a slight breeze that streams through the walkways, that is, until you reach the top. From the top you can see for miles, all along the lungomare and right out to across the city and to the horizon. The sun was glittering on the azzurro water and made me feel like I was in heaven.

The view from the top...Stupenda.

The view of Mergellina from the top of the Castle

Castel dell’Ovo was made for the war in order to see the situation on the ocean (sorry for the terrible language, it's hard to translate). Gino later explained to me that it’s name (ovo = egg) comes from a legend that a mermaid and a dragon had a fight, the dragon turned the mermaid into stone and put a dragon egg on her head and this is the base of the castle. Gennaro also told me that if this egg ever breaks, the whole of Napoli will sink into the sea. Legends aside, the castle is amazing. From the top you can see up to Castel Sant’Elmo on the hill, which was also built for the war, but to see further out to the sea, and has 360° panoramic views. In fact, seen from above, Castel Sant’Elmo is actually the shape of a five-pointed star. Obviously you can’t see this when you visit it, but on postcards it looks amazing.

Since it was only around 5 and the sun doesn’t set until around 9, we decided we would walk back up Via Roma (the most beautiful street in Naples with all the luxury brand stores) and take the funicolare (cable car) to Vomero, a very rich district up on the hill. If anyone has seen my favourite brown Italian boots, this is where I bought them. If you want to shop anywhere in Naples, in my opinion, it must be done here. Not only are the streets all cobbled, scattered with gelaterie and pasticcerie, lined with oak trees and surrounded by beautiful negozi, there are also stairs and escalators on the streets, because it’s sort of steep in some places (hence the need for a cable car).

A street in Vomero - then my camera ran out

From the funicolare in Vomero, we walked up and around to see if Castel Sant’Elmo was open, but unfortunately it had just closed. Instead we walked around further by the Certosa di San Martino to admire the view of Naples, Vesuvio and Spaccanapoli. I love this view. I’ve been up there a few times, by day and by night. Both are equally beautiful. You can see ancient buildings for miles, the direct line of Spaccanapoli which cuts the city basically in two (this is where my school was), Vesuvius is in the distance, and right in the middle is Centro Direzionale, the business district of Naples.

A zoomed in view of the city, the tall buildings are the Centro Direzionale,
and Spaccanapoli is the dark line leading towards them

The view from the certosa, Santa Chiara is the church with the green roof -
it is opposite my school - and Vesuvio is in the distance

We walked back down to Vomero to have a look around and soon came across a pasticceria which sold ginormous meringues! I’m so sad my camera ran out of battery so I couldn’t take a photo of them, but it was bigger than both of your fists put together and then dusted with cocoa. My attempts to explain to Gennaro how amazing my mum is at making these, and how delicious they are were not doing these meringues justice. So in the end Gennaro bought us one to share – he insisted on one each, but both of us are glad I convinced him it was too much. He would eat it for a bit and then give it to me, then I would do the same. We both had meringue powder all over our mouths, and by the time we had finally finished it, my fingers and mouth were all sticky from the sugar. But it was worth it, so so delicious. Mum, a hint – cocoa on meringue = BUONO!!

By this stage our feet were feeling quite achy, so we returned to the funicolare to go back down to Via Roma, and then walked to Monte Santo to get the metro. Monte Santo is such a crazy place! There are people all over the place and it’s kind of like a market on the street, but cars and scooters attempt to in the streets too, so it ends up pretty chaotic.

We took the metro to Piazza Garibaldi where I sadly had to leave Gennaro, but I had to get home because it was getting late and the trains don’t run here after 9. I made it home just in time for dinner at 9pm, and it was only when I arrived I realised I had about six missed calls from worried parents assuming something awful had happened. I guess they have every reason to worry after how many things happened last time I was here. Nevertheless, I got home safely, albeit with the sorest feet I have had in years.

We had a delicious salad with lettuce, baby potatoes, olives, grilled eggplants with chilli and garlic in oil, and tomato, and this strange meat in a can that Afrodite insisted was delicious. I wasn’t so sure when it came out of the can and managed to maintain its shape on top of my salad, covered in jelly, complete with ridges from the inside of the can. I managed to get most of it down, but I don’t know if I’m so keen for it next time. Probably one of the first times (since the fegato – liver – incident 4 years ago) that I haven’t liked something here. Oh, and the pig intestine incident. Both very dangerous and not to be repeated.

For now, however, I think I have written enough. I have lots more to write about today and my arrival in Fossacesia, Abruzzo. Pretty much the most amazing beach I’ve ever been to. So until next blog, ciao!!!

Let the holidays begin!

Around 9:30 on Sunday night after a late Sunday lunch, Afrodite and I went out with her two friends Raffaele and Pietro to the lungomare, which is kind of like Oriental Parade, except way cooler. In order to get there, we had to drive through the city, which meant crazy traffic time. I'm not sure if you've ever heard about how they drive here, but the road code is pretty much "fai quello che vuoi" or "do what you want". As much as this sounds like it could work well, when you live in a city of 4 million people with 4 lane roads and no traffic lights or roundabouts, driving becomes more of an adventure sport for thrill seekers. Intersections become a mess of 16 lanes with people turning in all sorts of directions, weaving in and around and shouting furiously at one another. I had completely forgotten how insane it is. However, the danger is always worth it when you get to drive past ginormous castles and palaces. This was also my first time back in the city of Naples, and it was nice to see they have finally finished their third metro line, complete with new piazzas and shiny statues.

About 40 minutes later we made it to the lungomare, but the traffic was jam packed because it was a beautiful evening and the main roads are closed in summer for passengers, so we parked the car in the first place we saw (a mile away). Here, no matter where you park your car - in the city, in the country - a man will always creep out of the shadows and demand money to supposedly "guard" your car. The other night I asked if this happens everywhere, but apparently it's only in Naples; they invent jobs for themselves and every one accepts it.

Afrodite, Raffaele and me - I am not a giant, I swear!

Anyway, off we went, wandering through a massive garden towards all the noise and light. I had never seen the lungomare like this before. There were so many people and everywhere you looked there were stalls selling bags, shoes, jewellery, toys with lights, gerbils and mice...the list goes on. The air smelt like sugar as we walked past the candyfloss makers and honey roasted almonds, huge caravans selling snacks absolutely covered in blow up hearts with love messages written on them: the best was a pair of lips with "kiss me baby" written on them. Other stalls were selling freshly steamed or flame-grilled corn, or "porchetta" which is the most disgusting thing in the world - raw pigs intestines with lemon and salt. I had one look and wanted to gag. And how could I forget the paninoteca! Where you go to dance and eat at the same time : ) I saw maybe two of them, blasting out dance music, with flashing lights everywhere, but you actually go there to get a panino (sandwich) or a pizzetta or kebab.

I almost bought this for Campbell

La Paninoteca: look closely at the righthand side

Unfortunately, this wasn't quite what we were after, so we kept walking for a few kilometres stopping to gaze at the beautiful (expensivissimo) palazzi (old apartment buildings), and the gorgeous ships and yachts in the marina. I tried to take photos of the lungomare because it's hard to explain it but night time photos can't capture the real effect of the lights that go for miles, but I couldn't do it justice. There were also lots of lanterns floating in the sky that people had bought in order to make a wish and then set free. But these were also very hard to capture because they fly up into the sky too quickly!

We found a nice chalet in the end where I had a gelato al bacio (an italian chocolate with hazelnut - it means "kiss"). It was to die for. Absolutely delicious. We spent the next hour or so with Raffaele trying out all his english on me before we decided to make our way back to the car just after midnight. There were still hundreds of people, even families with young children on the street, because it was the night before the holidays began, so everyone was in the mood to celebrate. One hour later we made it to the car with aching feet from wearing such high shoes, and made it home just before 2.

In front: my "coppa media di bacio"   Left: Afro's frappe with Kinder gelato
Right: Pietro's strawberry delight    Behind to the left: il caffè

The next morning (yesterday) we got ready to go to Baia to a relative's house for a festa. My family do this every year on the first of August, not just to celebrate the beginning of the holidays, but also to say goodbye to each other for the month, and to celebrate Gennaro's (a cousin's) birthday (he was 19 this year), and a wedding anniversary (of 30 years this year). We arrived around 10:30am to the a huge house with a beautiful blue pool, and immediately started piling on the sun lotion and getting ready to go swimming. When all twenty something of us had finally arrived, in came the metre long pizzas, bags of pizzette (little balls of peppery dough with chunks of salami in them), taralli (twisted rings of a type of dense savoury biscuit filled with almonds and pepper) and other snacks. I tried the little pizzette, which were delicious, but when I heard "sangria" it was all over for me.

Gino with the massive pizza

The beautiful pool!

Afrodite had been telling me all about this famous sangria which comes served in a giant "concomero" (watermelon). What they do is take the biggest melon they can find, cut off the top of it, scoop out all the fruit, and freeze the shell. They then fill it with chunks of white, yellow and orange peaches, pears, apples, and green melon, and then a mixture of fruit juice and montepulciano di Abruzzo (delicious red wine) and some other form of fizzy home made white wine I think...because I saw them topping it up. You then pour yourself a drink with the ladle, and wow is it delicious!! It was even better when I found out there were two!

La sangria

Lina and I with our Sangria

With the sun too hot to bear, and Carmine on a never-ending mission to annoy anyone who is caught unaware, I was eager to get myself into the pool before he pushed me in. Sabatino (my uncle) wanted me to dive in from the dining board and so did I, but when I got to the end my heart was beating so hard I could see it coming out of my chest. I have a fear of belly-flopping, even though the diving board was only about 80cm high. By now, everyone had seen I was standing on the end and it was too late to turn back. Carmine had the camera ready, and everyone was chanting for me to get in. I was too scared to dive, but too scared to find out what would happen if I didn't jump with Sabatino waiting for me at the end of the diving board, so I jumped...and it was so worth it. The water was so refreshing, a nice change from the 30 degree heat. But I preferred to just tread water, while the women gossiped by the pool side, and the men played some kind of waterpolo at the other end.

Into the water I go - Sabatino is threatening me from the end

We all lazed around for a couple of hours, and I attempted to read trashy Italian magazines, meanwhile the table was being prepared for lunch. Three long tables end to end, covered with tablecloths, goblets, wine glasses, plates, knives and forks ready for a feast that could have fed all twenty of us four times over. I ran around trying to get photos of everything I could find, which sort of turned into a joke because I literally took photos of everything. 170 in total. Afro and I snuck into the kitchen to find out what was on the menu. The women in the kitchen explained to me about the pastas and the main meat dish pizza di carne or "ginormous meatloaf covered in tomato sauce and mozarella" (which began a whole day of discussion about "Loff" aka meatloaf). I also spotted a ginormous aged cheese from Sardegna that I couldn't wait to try. There was so much food in the kitchen I couldn't have imagined there would be more, but no, I was oh so wrong.

We finally all sat down at the table with sangria in hand, attempted to take a full table photo but everyone was busy yelling at each other that we couldn't get everyone's attention at the same time. Plates passed around the place to try and get one of all three of the first course, Lina said grace for the table, and the eating commenced.

Pre-meal salutations, all 5 kilos lighter than we are now

For il primo piatto we had not just one but two types of pasta: i) fusili con frutti di mare which is a spiral pasta with octopus, shrimps, mussels, olives and capsicum, and ii) papardelle con pomodori e mozzarella which was butterfly pasta with tomatoes and chunks of mozzarella. We also had l'insalata di riso or rice salad with corn, tuna and pieces of what I think was a ham sausage thing. You can put mayonnaise on this one if you like, but it's delicious by itself. It was my favourite one.

Top: fusilli con frutti di mare Bottom left: Farfalle con pomodori e mozarella Right: Insalta di riso
No, I did not eat all this, but I did have more rice

For il secondo piatto we had la pizza di carne (that meatloaf) but I never tried it. For the contorni we had i carciofi con prosciutto e mozzarella (two artichoke leaves with prosciutto and mozzarella in between, then battered and fried), a tangy side dish of eggplants cooked with cherry tomatoes, and another of porcini mushrooms cooked with tomatoes.

Zia Titina cutting la pizza di carne 

I contorni - Top: i funghi (mushrooms)
Bottom Left: le melanzale (aubergine)  Right: i carciofi (artichoke delight)  

After i secondi I had had enough of being at the table, but was stuck for what else to do. Luckily I spotted a couple of cute bicycles resting against the hedge, so I decided I would go fare un piccolo giro to see what else was in the street. My journey didn't last too long because I soon realised the brakes didn't work, so I wanted to steer clear of all cars. Upon my return, however, there was another course awaiting for me. I formaggi.

Me with the cute bicycle

Now this next course was one of my favourites. Not only was there cheese, there were three different cheeses, salami and insalata. Allora, spiego. My excitement at the formaggio di Sardegna was nothing compared to my excitement when I saw a plate filled with boconcini. The women told me that this mozzarella is even better than anywhere else, because the buffalos live nearby. As soon as I tasted it, I believed every word she said. Mamma told me that the best mozzarella leaves milk on the knife when you cut it, not too much, it has to be the right amount. These boconcini more than satisfied the criteria, and by the looks the Carmine's face in the photo below, he also thought the same of this massive ball of mozzarella (eaten with a knife and fork).

I boconcini and l'insalata

A very content Carmine with his own mozzarella

Along with the boconcini we had salami, copicollo (sort of like a cross between prosciutto crudo and salami), a very aged sheep's cheese from Sardegna (Sardinia) that you eat with honey, and another cheese that was very similar but much younger that you eat by itself. At first I wasn't so sure about cheese and honey, though now I come to think of it, I used to eat honey and cheese on crackers all the time when I was younger. But this piccante cheese was absolutely delicious with the sweetness of the honey. The only thing stopping me from eating more was knowing how much was still left to go.

Sabatino cutting the capicollo

The cheese from Sardinia

My plate - I took a tiny selection of everything to try

By this time I had really really had enough, and out came sacks of peanuts in their shells, and little cracker things. Afro and Sabatino had put themselves to bed in the sun loungers, but I wasn't in the mood to sleep. Instead, Carmine invited me to play a type of volleyball with him and Gennaro for a bit, probably not realising how uncoordinated I am. I lost basically straight away and decided that swimming would be a better idea. This kept me busy for quite a while until Lina told me there was concomero to eat. Watermelon! My favourite! I was out in a flash to eat some peaches, watermelon and another melon that I call "grande giallo" because when I arrived for the first time 4 years ago, I couldn't speak Italian. So in order to ask what were the huge yellow balls of fruit everywhere, "grande giallo" or "big yellow" was the only way I figured I could do it. I will take a photo of one later to show...But they are delicious. I had them for dessert tonight too.

After la frutta I went to sunbathe and try to waste time reading trashy magazines in Italian. During this time another couple arrived who hadn't yet eaten. So as soon as they sat at the table, out came all the food...again. They were told I was Australian, which infuriated me, but I soon came to realise that people will just never understand that New Zealand is a country in itself, and that my name is said Cheyne, not Cheela, as some people tried to rename me yesterday. Except this man who was at the table didn't just want to know about New Zealand, he wanted me to sit beside him and drink sangria and eat formaggio for company, even though he already had about ten people around him. I happily moved down to the end of the table and took the roles of sangria pourer, fruit provider (leftover from the sangria), conversation starter and cheese eater. It was delightful talking with them and telling them about New Zealand, and then explaining how I feel about the Italian way of life and Naples. By this stage it was around 7:30, so I wanted to relax a little bit inside.

Finally, around quarter past 8 all of the dolci started coming out on to the table. This time, instead of buying typical desserts, this amazing lady had not only cooked all the food I've already talked about, but also four different cakes. Incredibile! First there was the torta caprese which is chocolate and almond, then there was la torta caprese al limone (almonds and lemon), then a cheesecake (said with an Italian accent, and made with ricotta, not cream cheese), and then the torta di gelato (icecream cake). Before we could eat, however, we sang happy birthday about seven times to Gennaro because there were no candles, and then there weren't enough, and then no cameras etc etc, and congratulated the couple on their 30th wedding anniversary. 

From the top: la torta caprese al limone, cheesecake,
torta caprese classica, torta di gelato, i biscotti di mandorle

Singing happy birthday to Gennaro

Like everyone else, I managed to eat a piece of every single one of them, accompagnied by a delicious red prosecco. All of the cakes were delicious: the two torta capresi are great because they still have chunks of almonds and aren't too heavy or sweet, the cheesecake was amazing (despite my insistence that I hate it) because it was made with ricotta so it was like eating marshmallow, but the best of all was the gelato cake made with the sponge biscuits used for tiramisu to line the bowl, and then three layers of gelato: chocolate, panna and coffee, all frozen and then inversed on a plate. Ohhh all were soooo soooo delicioius!

With polished plates, this really was all we could take. We were completely destroyed and it was time to head home. After 8 hours of eating, you would think so too. I think we did pretty well, though I sure hope the food doesn't keep coming like this because I just can't keep up! Starting tomorrow, when we leave for Abruzzo, I am pretty sure it will slow down. Especially since we all have to look good at the beach in our bikinis!!! Now, I don't think there is internet in Abruzzo, so I will write my blogs during the month, and then post them as soon as I have internet. Sorry!!! I will try my best!

Che bella è la vita italiana

Being back in Naples has so far been amazing. So much time had passed that I had forgotten how delicious the food here is. After arriving home from 42 hours of travelling, I dined on a "simple" lunch of prosciutto cotto with some bread, and a ginormous, juicy peach before going shopping with Lina and Afrodite. Then later in the evening, I went with Lina and Gino to a pizzeria where I had my first margherita in just over three years! And it was definitely worth the wait.

Before

After

Since it was saturday night, there was a man playing the guitar and singing neapolitan songs, and everyone in the restaurant was singing along, clapping and enjoying the entertainment. Then all of a sudden the voice of the singer changed, and we realised that at the table next to us there was a blind man with the most incredible voice had taken over the singing. Everyone was so astounded to hear this man singing at the top of his lungs, not just for one song, but about four in a row. It was amazing! This is what I've missed about Italian culture. They are so vivacious and really proud to be neapolitan. Every single person in this restaurant was joining in, and it was hard not to because it's so contagious.

We got home around midnight, and then had to deal to the oil I spilt all over my dress because it turns out I'm not such an expert at eating la pizza napoletana anymore. But when I finally got to sleep, it was sooo goooodddd. I then spent this morning chatting with Afrodite before she reminded me about the kittens downstairs. I didn't need to be told twice. We were down there subito, look how cute they are:

I now have little tiny paw prints on my camisole.

We have since had our Sunday lunch which was the ultimate in deliciousness! We had spaghetti alle vongole, followed by ginormous prawns with a mixed salad, then we had freshly fried zucchini flowers (all accompanied by homemade sparkling white wine). These courses were finished with fresh peaches, plums and caffè. Che buono!

Spaghetti alle vongole

In this bottle is homemade sparkling white wine

Above: i gamberoni e l'inslata mista
Below: Zucchini flowers, waiting to be fried, the finished product in the background

I can't wait for tomorrow. We're going to a relative's house near the sea with a pool to drink sangria and have a big lunch! Basically a festa for no reason - because it's the first of August. I will no doubt have more to tell tomorrow! But for now, au revoir!